It is the largest country in Africa. More than four-fifths of it is the Sahara Desert. And painted on the walls of its ancient sandstone plateaus are the memories of a world ten thousand years gone — elephants and giraffes and the people who hunted them, preserved in the dry Saharan air long after the land turned to dust.

Algeria is a country of staggering contrasts. A Mediterranean coastline of white cities and ancient harbours. A mountainous north where Amazigh Berber culture has survived for millennia. And then the Sahara — vast, silent, extraordinary — where Roman cities lie half-buried in the sand and prehistoric rock art covers the cliffs of Tassili n'Ajjer.

Ray takes you through all of it. The history — from the ancient Numidian kingdom and the Roman province that gave the world Saint Augustine, through Ottoman corsairs and 132 years of French colonialism that changed the world's understanding of colonialism and ended with a nation dancing in the streets in July 1962. We meet Abd al-Qadir — the warrior-philosopher who has a town named after him in Iowa. We meet Albert Camus, who won the Nobel Prize and never stopped being Algerian. We meet Zinedine Zidane. And we meet Cheb Khaled — the King of Raï, the bestselling Arabic-language singer in history, whose voice rose from the cabarets of Oran to the top of the charts in Paris, London, and Mumbai.

We eat couscous, merguez, chorba, and Deglet Noor dates so good they're called fingers of light. We watch the sunrise from the Ahaggar Mountains. We stand in the Roman city of Timgad, unchanged for 1,900 years. And we listen to Raï — the music that said the things nobody else would say.

The desert remembers everything.

New episodes every Monday at 7pm. Next week — Andorra.